Shoe heel and method of making same



June 10, 1947. A. CHODOR SHOE HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Max- 11 7, 1945 Zinventor Gttornegc) Patented June 10, 1947 SHOE HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Abraham Chodor, Reading, Pa., assignor of onehalf to Nathan Fein, Reading Pa.

- Application March 7, 1945, Serial No. 581,357

2 Claims. 1

My invention relates generally to shoes, and more particularly to a simplified and improved construction and method of making the heel portion of a shoe of the so-called stitch-down type, my object being to produce in an. inexpensive manner the appearance of an inseated heel construction found ordinarily only in more costly and better grade shoes.

As indicative of its cheaper construction, the sole and heel lift in the stitch-down type of shoe usually projects outwardly beyond the upper around the entire heel portion of the latter, undesirably exposing the stitching uniting its marginal edge to the outwardly flanged lower edge of the upper, as known and generally recognized.

I am aware that various suggestions have heretofore been made to modify such undesirable heel construction of the stitch-down type of shoe in an effort to simulate the inturned heel construction of better class shoes, but all, so far as I am aware, have involved manufacturing complications and added costs defeating their usefulness.

My improved heel construction and its simplified method of manufacture provide in an effective and inexpensive manner for obtaining the desired appearance of an inturned heel construction, and the nature of my improvements and the manner of their production will be more fully described hereinafter in connection with the accompanying drawing, and the novelty involved specifically defined in the appended claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 indicates in plan view a stitch-down type of shoe embodying my improved heel construction, and Fig. 2 is a corresponding side elevation of the same.

Fig.3 is a separate plan. view, and Fig. 4 a corresponding side elevation, of a shoe upper employed in producing the completed shoe shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

Figs. 5 and 6 are respectively separate plan and side views of an inner sole with an attached heel piece.

Figs, '7 and 8 are respectively separate plan and side views of the outer sole and heel lift employed.

Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional view of a toe end of the shoe upper, taken on the line 99 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 10 is a cross-sectional view of the heel end of the shoe upper, taken on the line Illlll of Fig. 3.

Fig. 11 is a separate view of a heel piece particularly adapted for my present purpose.

Fig. 12 is an enlarged cross-sectional view of the finished heel portion, taken on the line |2l 2 of Fig. 1.

The drawings, except in Fig. 12, omit any indication of the last over which the shoe is made in known and understood manner, as believed not required for a full understanding of the present invention, and the shoe upper shown is merely indicative of any ordinary style of shoe.

Figs. 3 and 4 indicate a usual shoe upper 5, and essentially requires for my present purpose an outwardly flanged lower marginal edge 6 extending around its entire periphery, with the base of the upper heel portion 1 having an encircling groove 8 formed by a recessed bend of said upper extending inwardly beneath the lower edge of the curved heel portion 1 and uniting the latter to the flanged edge, 6 so said flange around the heel portion will extend-inwardly and underlie said upper heel portion 1.

The groove 8 and inwardly extended heel portion of flange 6, may be provided for by any means found suitable, but a simple means for this purpose is indicated in- F 1 as a suitable counter IU pre-shaped to heel curvature, and provided with an encircling outwardly projected flanged edge ll extending inwardly beneath the outer curvatures of said'counter and integrally connected to the latter by the recessed bend I2 to form a groove l3 and the inner wall of said bend defines a space to be filled by a heel piece on an inner sole as will later herein be more fully described. A counter of the nature just described may be readily inserted in the heel of an upper 5, desirably between its outer leather and an inner lining, if employed, and said upper is pressed into the counter groove l3, so as to provide the upper with the aforesaid groove 8, with the upper leather flange 6 resting on counter flange H, and any upper lining being bent outwardly to lie against the underside of said counter flange H. As thus formed the counter provides in a simple manner for shaping the heel portion as before described and becomes a unitary portion of the latter.

It will be readily understood that the upper, as above described, is drawn over and fixed to a usual last in well-known manner, ready for attachment of an inner sole l5, as indicated in Figs. 5 and 6, which sole is shown as provided with an attached heel piece positioned in the heel portion thereof so as to fit within the space defined by the inner bend of groove 8 to complete a comfortable rounded heel seat. This inner sole is secured to the flange 6 of the upper 5, by stitching in the usual manner around the entire periphery of said flange through the marginal edge of said inner sole, the stitching however in the heel portion thereof, for my present purposes, being set into the groove 8 of said upper so as to engage the heel portion of flange E and marginal edge portion of inner sole i5 in an inset position to underlie and -be hidden beneath the" overlying" outer portion of' sa-idheel upper. The excess extension of flange 6 and inner sole may now be trimmed to conform to:

the outer curvature of the heel upper T, but they will be securely stitched togeth'erja'sina stitchdown type of shoe, and the uniting stitches in the heel portion in this case will thus liebeneath the overhanging heel upper and becompletely'-' hidden, and heel piece IE will fill in the space between the inner wall of groin/e8 andforrn a" heel seat in line with the inner upper surface of said groove curve. v

To complete myishoe, an outer sole 20, shown in Figs. '7 and 8; with a heel 'liftzl, may be sti tched; to the flange 6 of upper 5 and its attached inner sole; l5: asheretofore, but: such stitching is terminatedfat the beginning ofitheshoe heel'portion and the latterj securedftothe upper and its attached sole, as'by nailing in known manner.

In Fig. 12, I 'have' indicated" on an enlarged: scale, a cross sectional view of -a'- heel made in the manner above descriloed a shoe last being indicated at ZE'in'dott ed cross-section, and the upper, in thislc ase marked 26', is intended to represent any upper shaped asrequired formy present purpose, and mayindicatea composite of outer leather, heel counter, and inner lining; if

they are employed. This: view alsoshows the ro ve fines rea h right de i th st r as closed by clinching of the nails uniting the heel portion of the sole, so as to completely; bury and hide theseaming and p're'sentan even smooth outer surface tothis heel construetion.

v Fron'ithe foregoing descriptionit willgbe'readily eat e c qm i hmrfl e s ab e t q c a viding a heel construction having the appearance ofa more expensively made inset heel --construction, and tha t-lmy method of securing these results follow in a" general manner the" inexpensive meansof making astitch-down shoe,

except that the stitching of the inner sole" totheupper in the heel portion, isinseated beneath e: ev in 9 m: h el upper, an t h stitchingof the outer sole isxterminated at theheel'and the latter secured-by nailing in usual costs with greatly enhanced appearance" and -1.. ..t

et a m is The improved: rnethod offmaliing a; stitch 66' down type s hoe which comprises providinga shoe upper having an outwardly flanged-lowerperipheral edge with a recessedfold at thei inner edge' providing a stitch-hiding? groove lying inwardly beneath the lower edge of said heel portion, stitching said upper flange to the peripheral edge of an inner sole with the stitching encircling said heel portion lying within said groove, trimming away the seamed-together edges of said inner sole and shoe upper projecting outwardly around the heel portion to conform with the outer curvature'o'f the 'latter; then stitching the'forward portion of an outer sole to said outwardly projectin'g flange and its attached inner sole rearwardly around said upper to the heel portion of the latter, and nailing a'narrower heel-shape conforming outer sole heel portion and a heel lift therefor to theh'eel portion ofsaid upper-attached inner sole"to-'u'nderlie and cover the stitching uniting said inner sole and shoe upper lying within said heel groove,

2;"Th'e improved method of making a stitchdown type shoe, which comprises providing a shoe upper having anoutwardly flanged lowerperipheraledge-with a recessed fold at the inner edge of the flange encircling the heel portion thereof providing a stitch-hidinggroove lying inwardly beneath the lower edge of said heel portion; providing an inner sole with a heel piece adapted to fit within the heel portionof said upper in abutting contact with the inner encircling wall of said heel recessed fold, stitching said upper flange to the peripheral edge of said inner sole with the stitching encircling said heel portion lying within said'groove, trimming'awaythe seamedtogetheredges 'of said inner sole and shoe upper projecting outwardly around the heel portiontoconform with-the outer curvature of the latter,-

then stitching the forward portion of an outer sole to said outwardly projecting flange and its attached innersole rearwardly around saidupper to the heel portion of thelatter; andnailing" 40 a narrowerheel shape conforming outer soleheel portion and a heel lift therefor to the heel-portion of said upper attached'inner sole and heelpiece to underlie and cover the stitching uniting said inner sole and shoe upper lying-within said heel groove.

ABR'AHAM' oHoDoR.

REFERENCES" CITED The following" references are of record in tl'ie" X file" of this-patent:

UNI'TEDYSTATEJS" PATENTS 

